Author: LASHMAITRE Business Strategy Team

Topic: Service Expansion & Profitability

Reading Time: 25 Minutes

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Introduction

In the hyper-competitive US lash market, salons are constantly fighting for differentiation. Most businesses focus entirely on the upper lash line, competing on volume speed or wispy mapping. However, they are ignoring 50% of the eye—and potentially 30% of the profit. Bottom lash eyelash extensions represent the single most underutilized revenue stream in the industry today.

For the savvy B2B salon owner, introducing bottom lash eyelash extensions is not just about aesthetics; it is a strategic business move. It transforms a standard appointment into a premium “Full Orbital” service, increasing your ticket value without requiring a new client acquisition cost.

This white paper will analyze the profitability of upselling lash services like bottom lashes, define the specific bottom lash extension supplies (specifically J-Curls) you need to stock, and outline the technical lower lash application technique required to execute this service safely and profitably.

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The Financial Case: Why Add Lower Lashes to Your Menu?

Before we discuss technique, let’s discuss margins. Adding bottom lash eyelash extensions is highly efficient because the client is already on the bed, prepped, and comfortable.

The “Add-On” Economics

Acquiring a new client costs money (Ads, Marketing). Upselling an existing client costs zero.

• Time Investment: An experienced tech can apply a bottom set in 20-30 minutes.
• Product Cost: Minimal (uses very few lashes compared to top sets).
• Perceived Value: High. It creates a complete, high-end look that mascara cannot mimic.

Salon Profitability Model (Per Client)

Service Type	Duration	Price (Avg)	Revenue Per Hour	Product Cost
Top Volume Set	2.0 Hrs	$180	$90 / hr	$5.00
Bottom Lash Add-On	0.5 Hrs	$50 – $70	$100 – $140 / hr	$1.00
Total Combined	2.5 Hrs	$230 – $250	$96 / hr (Blended)	$6.00

Conclusion: The bottom lash add-on actually has a higher hourly revenue rate than the main service.

Market Data: According to Grand View Research, the demand for “complete facial aesthetic” services is growing, with consumers increasingly seeking all-in-one treatments that eliminate the need for any makeup, including lower lash mascara.

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Inventory Essentials: The J-Curl Necessity

One of the biggest mistakes salons make is trying to use their existing upper lash inventory for bottom lash eyelash extensions. This is a recipe for disaster.

Why C-Curls Fail on Bottoms

Natural lower lashes grow straight out or slightly downward.

• C/D Curl: If you apply a C curl to a bottom lash, it curves upwards towards the eye. This looks like a hook and can tangle with the top lashes when the client blinks.
• Length Issue: Standard trays start at 8mm. 8mm is too long for most bottom lashes, creating a “spider” look.

The B2B Solution: Specialized Trays

To offer this service professionally, you must stock bottom lash extension supplies.

• The Curl: J Curl (straight with a slight tip flick) or B Curl. These mimic the natural downward flow.
• The Length: 5mm, 6mm, 7mm. Anything longer looks artificial.
• The Thickness: 0.07mm or 0.10mm. Bottom lashes are fragile; 0.15mm is too heavy.

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Technical Anatomy: Understanding the Lower Lid

Mastering lower lash application technique requires understanding the unique anatomy of the lower eyelid.

The Danger Zones

• Tear Trough: Gravity pulls tears (and fumes) downward. Lower lashes are constantly bathed in moisture.
• Skin Proximity: Lower lashes grow flush against the skin of the under-eye.

Scientific Context: According to Wikipedia’s Eyelid Anatomy, the meibomian glands on the lower lid margin are critical for tear film stability. Blocking these with adhesive can cause severe dry eye or styes. Placement must be precise—1mm away from the skin, never touching it.

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Application Protocol: The “Closed Eye” vs “Open Eye” Debate

There are two schools of thought for applying bottom lash eyelash extensions. For salon liability and safety, we recommend the Closed Eye (Inverted) Method.

Method A: Open Eye (Risky)

The client keeps eyes open and looks up while you apply.

• Risk: High fume exposure directly to the cornea. High risk of chemical burn if eyes water.

Method B: Closed Eye / Inverted (Recommended)

The client keeps eyes closed (just like a top set).

1. Tape Back: Use tape to gently lift the upper lashes onto the eyelid, exposing the bottom lashes.
2. Pad Placement: Place a gel pad over the top lashes (now taped back) to protect them from glue.
3. Application: Apply the bottom extensions pointing towards the technician (technically “upside down” relative to the tech, but correct for the client).

The Safety SOP

1. Secure Upper Lashes: Ensure no top lashes are loose, or you will glue the eye shut.
2. Direction: Apply J curls straight, following the natural growth.
3. Bonding: Use minimal glue. Blobs will touch the skin immediately due to gravity.

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Adhesive Strategy: Managing Fumes Near the Waterline

Because the lower lashes sit directly on the wet line, fume management is critical.

Low Fume is Mandatory

Standard 0.5-second glue is often too strong (fume-wise) for bottom lashes. Gravity pulls the heavy fumes into the eye.

• B2B Recommendation: Use a low fume glue for bottom lashes (often labeled as Sensitive or Clear).
• Clear Glue: Preferred for bottom lashes as it avoids the “black eyeliner” look on the lower lid, which can look like smudged mascara.

Adhesive Selection for Bottoms

Feature	Upper Lash Glue	Bottom Lash Glue
Cure Time	0.5 – 1 Sec	1 – 2 Sec (Allows placement adjustment)
Fume Level	Medium/High	Low / Zero
Color	Black	Clear / Black
Viscosity	Thin	Medium (Prevents running into eye)

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Styling & Mapping: Creating Balance, Not Shadows

Bottom lash eyelash extensions should balance the face, not drag it down.

Mapping Strategies

1. The “Doll Eye” Balance: If you do a Doll Eye on top (longest in middle), mirror it on the bottom. Focus length (7mm) in the center of the lower lid to open the eye vertically.
2. The “Cat Eye” Balance: If you do a Cat Eye on top, focus density on the outer corners of the bottom to elongate the eye width.
3. The “Kim K” Spikes: Use 0.10mm “Spikes” on the bottom (spaced out) to create a trendy, anime-inspired look.

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Retention Management: Setting Client Expectations

B2B clients need to know that bottom lash retention challenges are real. Bottom lashes do not last as long as top lashes.

The 2-Week Reality

• Friction: We rub our under-eyes when tired.
• Moisture: Tears pool on the bottom lid.
• Face Cream: Eye creams are applied directly to the area where bottom lashes sit.

Action: Inform clients that bottom lashes typically last 10-14 days. Price the service accordingly (lower than a top fill) so they don’t feel cheated when they shed.

Data Insight: A study in PubMed (NCBI) on cosmetic dermatology indicates that the lower eyelid skin is thinner and has higher mobility than the upper lid, contributing to increased mechanical friction and faster product wear-off.

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Marketing the Add-On: Pitching to Brides and Models

How do you sell this? Focus on Photography.

The “No-Shadow” Pitch

High-volume top lashes can cast a shadow under the eye, making the client look like they have dark circles in photos.

• The Solution: Bottom lash eyelash extensions balance the light and open the eye, eliminating the “heavy lid” look.
• Target Audience: Brides, Models, and anyone attending a special event.

Scripting the Upsell

Client Hesitation	Technician Response (The Script)
“I don’t want to look like a doll.”	“We use ultra-short, natural brown lashes. It just looks like you have great genes, not makeup.”
“Will they tangle?”	“Not with our J-Curl technology. They curve downwards, away from your top lashes.”
“I can just wear mascara.”	“Mascara on bottom lashes smudges and gives you raccoon eyes by 2 PM. These are waterproof.”

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Conclusion: The Full-Spectrum Salon

In 2026, a high-end salon cannot claim to offer “complete” lash services without mastering bottom lash eyelash extensions. It is the mark of a technician who understands total facial balance.

From a business perspective, the math is undeniable. Low product cost + short application time + high perceived value = Maximum Profit. But to execute this, you cannot improvise with top lash supplies. You need specialized tools.

LASHMAITRE provides the industry’s finest J-Curl Bottom Lash Trays, Sensitive Clear Adhesives, and Ergonomic Under-Eye Pads to help you unlock this profitable niche.

Ready to complete the look?

Stock the sizes your competitors ignore.

Register for a Wholesale Account & Shop Bottom Lash Trays

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People Also Ask (FAQ)

Q: How long do bottom lash extensions last?

A: Bottom lash eyelash extensions typically last between 10 to 14 days. This is shorter than upper lashes (which last 4-6 weeks) because the lower lash line is exposed to more friction from face washing, rubbing, eye creams, and the natural moisture (tears) of the eye. Salons should price this service as a short-term “event” add-on or offer bi-weekly mini-fills.

Q: Can you put mascara on bottom lash extensions?

A: No. Just like top lashes, you should avoid mascara on bottom lash eyelash extensions. Mascara clumps the fine extensions and the oils in the remover will dissolve the adhesive bond. The purpose of getting bottom extensions is to eliminate the need for mascara and avoid the “raccoon eye” smudging that happens with lower lash makeup.

Q: What curl is best for bottom lashes?

A: The best curl for bottom lashes is the J Curl or B Curl. These curls are straighter or have a very slight curve that mimics the natural downward growth of lower lashes. Using a C or D curl (which are meant for top lashes) on the bottom will make them curl upwards into the eye, causing irritation and tangling.

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References & Further Reading

1. Grand View Research. False Eyelashes Market Size & Segment Growth.
2. Wikipedia. Eyelid Anatomy and Meibomian Glands.
3. American Academy of Ophthalmology (AAO). Cosmetic Safety near the Eye.
4. PubMed. Facial Friction and Cosmetic Wear.

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📅 Content Administration

• Last Updated: January 18, 2026
• Changelog:
  • v1.0: Initial publication. Content focuses on Profit Model and J-Curl Inventory.
  • v1.1: Added “Application Protocols” (Closed Eye) and “Marketing Scripts”.
• Next Review Date: July 18, 2026